[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":492},["ShallowReactive",2],{"article-en-motor-types":3,"articles-en":395},{"id":4,"title":5,"applies_to":6,"author":8,"body":9,"confidence":367,"description":368,"extension":369,"faq":370,"meta":377,"navigation":378,"path":379,"seo":380,"sources":381,"stem":390,"test_bike":391,"topic":392,"updated":393,"__hash__":394},"content_en\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fmotor-types.md","E-Bike Conversion Motor Types Compared",[7],"all","fabio-gentsch",{"type":10,"value":11,"toc":355},"minimark",[12,16,21,133,136,140,143,150,156,168,172,175,210,213,222,225,276,279,282,286,295,299,335,342,346,349],[13,14,15],"p",{},"Three motor types cover most conversions: front hub, rear hub and mid-drive. The front motor is cheap and simple, the rear motor is balanced, and the mid-drive feels the most natural but is the most work to fit. On top of that there are niche options such as friction rollers and seat-tube motors.",[17,18,20],"h2",{"id":19},"at-a-glance","At a glance",[22,23,24,46],"table",{},[25,26,27],"thead",{},[28,29,30,34,37,40,43],"tr",{},[31,32,33],"th",{},"Motor type",[31,35,36],{},"Price range (rule of thumb)",[31,38,39],{},"Installation",[31,41,42],{},"Feel",[31,44,45],{},"Main problem",[47,48,49,67,84,101,117],"tbody",{},[28,50,51,55,58,61,64],{},[52,53,54],"td",{},"Front hub",[52,56,57],{},"250–600 €",[52,59,60],{},"easy",[52,62,63],{},"pulls from the front",[52,65,66],{},"weight at the front, traction",[28,68,69,72,75,78,81],{},[52,70,71],{},"Rear hub",[52,73,74],{},"250–900 €",[52,76,77],{},"medium",[52,79,80],{},"pushes, balanced",[52,82,83],{},"gearing, coaster brake",[28,85,86,89,92,95,98],{},[52,87,88],{},"Mid-drive",[52,90,91],{},"400–1,700 €",[52,93,94],{},"demanding",[52,96,97],{},"natural, uses your gears",[52,99,100],{},"bottom bracket, chain wear",[28,102,103,106,109,111,114],{},[52,104,105],{},"Friction roller",[52,107,108],{},"900–1,400 €",[52,110,60],{},[52,112,113],{},"weak",[52,115,116],{},"tyre wear, wet conditions",[28,118,119,122,125,127,130],{},[52,120,121],{},"Seat tube",[52,123,124],{},"from 2,850 €",[52,126,77],{},[52,128,129],{},"unobtrusive",[52,131,132],{},"straight seat tube needed",[13,134,135],{},"Price ranges are rough guides, without guarantee, as of November 2026.",[17,137,139],{"id":138},"front-hub-motor","Front hub motor",[13,141,142],{},"The front motor sits in the front wheel. You swap the wheel or have yours re-laced, connect cable and battery, and you are done. Gears and coaster brake at the rear stay, and you can combine it with hub gears.",[13,144,145,149],{},[146,147,148],"strong",{},"In favour:"," it is cheap and easy to fit.",[13,151,152,155],{},[146,153,154],{},"Against:"," the weight sits at the front. On wet roads and gravel the front wheel can spin, and the steering feel changes noticeably.",[13,157,158,161,162,167],{},[146,159,160],{},"Not recommended"," on a carbon fork, on a suspension fork without manufacturer approval, or on very light aluminium forks. With aluminium dropouts you need a torque arm (see ",[163,164,166],"a",{"href":165},"\u002Fen\u002Fknowledge\u002Ftorque-arm","torque arm","). If you have a front disc brake, the motor needs a disc mount.",[17,169,171],{"id":170},"rear-hub-motor","Rear hub motor",[13,173,174],{},"The rear motor sits in the back wheel. You get good traction and balanced weight distribution. A few things need checking:",[176,177,178,186,196,207],"ul",{},[179,180,181,182,185],"li",{},"You need ",[146,183,184],{},"derailleur gears",". Depending on the motor, a threaded freewheel or a cassette body works, and the number of speeds has to match.",[179,187,188,191,192,195],{},[146,189,190],{},"Hub gears"," and a ",[146,193,194],{},"coaster brake"," rule out most rear hub motors.",[179,197,198,199,202,203,206],{},"The ",[146,200,201],{},"hub spacing"," has to be right, usually 135 mm (see ",[163,204,201],{"href":205},"\u002Fen\u002Fknowledge\u002Fhub-spacing",").",[179,208,209],{},"A rear puncture is more work than before.",[17,211,88],{"id":212},"mid-drive",[13,214,215,216,206],{},"The mid-drive sits at the bottom bracket and drives the crank. It uses your gears and feels closest to a factory e-bike, and it is strong on hills (",[163,217,221],{"href":218,"rel":219},"https:\u002F\u002Fupway.de\u002Fblogs\u002Fnews\u002Ffahrrad-zum-e-bike-umbauen",[220],"nofollow","Upway",[13,223,224],{},"The flip side:",[176,226,227,244,253,259,265],{},[179,228,229,232,233,238,239,243],{},[146,230,231],{},"Bottom bracket:"," Bafang BBS and Tongsheng TSDZ fit shells 68 to 73 mm wide (BSA). Pressfit (BB86\u002FBB92) needs an adapter (",[163,234,237],{"href":235,"rel":236},"https:\u002F\u002Ffasterbikes.eu\u002Fen\u002Fconfigurators\u002F",[220],"fasterbikes","). Fat bike shells of 100 or 120 mm usually need their own variants. How to measure is under ",[163,240,242],{"href":241},"\u002Fen\u002Fknowledge\u002Fmeasure-bottom-bracket","measure your bottom bracket",".",[179,245,246,249,250,243],{},[146,247,248],{},"Coaster brake:"," The freewheel inside the motor often disables back-pedal braking. Variants with coaster brake exist, see ",[163,251,194],{"href":252},"\u002Fen\u002Fknowledge\u002Fcoaster-brake",[179,254,255,258],{},[146,256,257],{},"Front derailleur:"," Usually gone. Check chain line and chainstay.",[179,260,261,264],{},[146,262,263],{},"Wear:"," Chain and sprockets wear faster. Do not shift under full load.",[179,266,267,270,271,206],{},[146,268,269],{},"Installation:"," It is complex and not possible on every frame shape (",[163,272,275],{"href":273,"rel":274},"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.giga.de\u002Ftech\u002Fwer-billig-kauft-kauft-zweimal-diese-fehler-solltet-ihr-vermeiden-wenn-ihr-eurer-fahrrad-zum-e-bike-umbaut--01K0YYJEVGW05AE9TTBCPW0DAM",[220],"GIGA",[17,277,105],{"id":278},"friction-roller",[13,280,281],{},"A friction roller presses on the tyre from above or from the side (examples: add-e, Velospeeder). It is light and removable. On the other hand it has little power, it wears the tyre, and it can slip in the wet.",[17,283,285],{"id":284},"seat-tube-motor","Seat-tube motor",[13,287,288,289,294],{},"The seat-tube motor (for example Vivax) sits inside the seat tube. It needs a straight seat tube of 31.6 or 30.9 mm diameter (",[163,290,293],{"href":291,"rel":292},"https:\u002F\u002Ffahrrad-xxl.at\u002Fblog\u002Fe-bike-umbausatz",[220],"Fahrrad XXL","). It is unobtrusive but expensive.",[17,296,298],{"id":297},"which-motor-for-which-bike","Which motor for which bike?",[176,300,301,307,313,319,325],{},[179,302,303,306],{},[146,304,305],{},"Old city bike with coaster brake:"," Usually only a front hub or a mid-drive with a coaster-brake variant remains. Often a conversion makes little sense here.",[179,308,309,312],{},[146,310,311],{},"Trekking bike with derailleur:"," All three standard types are possible. Rear is the good compromise, mid-drive gives the best feel.",[179,314,315,318],{},[146,316,317],{},"Mountain bike:"," Mid-drive is the first choice if the bottom bracket fits.",[179,320,321,324],{},[146,322,323],{},"Road bike or bike with carbon fork:"," A front motor is out. Rear with 130 mm spacing or a friction roller are more realistic.",[179,326,327,330,331,206],{},[146,328,329],{},"Folding bike:"," The small wheels (20 inch) are fussy, so check the ETRTO number (see ",[163,332,334],{"href":333},"\u002Fen\u002Fknowledge\u002Fwheel-sizes","wheel sizes",[13,336,337,338,243],{},"Which choice suits you in the end is covered in ",[163,339,341],{"href":340},"\u002Fen\u002Fknowledge\u002Fmid-drive-vs-hub-motor","mid-drive or hub motor",[17,343,345],{"id":344},"how-reliable-is-this","How reliable is this?",[13,347,348],{},"Statements on mid-drive bottom brackets, seat-tube dimensions and the feel of the mid-drive come from the sources named. Price ranges, judgements on front and rear motors, friction rollers and the coaster brake are experience or assumptions that Fabio is still checking.",[13,350,351],{},[163,352,354],{"href":353},"\u002Fen\u002Fconfigurator","Does a conversion fit your bike?",{"title":356,"searchDepth":357,"depth":357,"links":358},"",2,[359,360,361,362,363,364,365,366],{"id":19,"depth":357,"text":20},{"id":138,"depth":357,"text":139},{"id":170,"depth":357,"text":171},{"id":212,"depth":357,"text":88},{"id":278,"depth":357,"text":105},{"id":284,"depth":357,"text":285},{"id":297,"depth":357,"text":298},{"id":344,"depth":357,"text":345},"assumption","Front, rear and mid-drive motors, friction rollers and seat-tube motors compared: feel, installation, cost and which bikes suit which.","md",[371,374],{"q":372,"a":373},"Which motor type is best for a conversion?","It depends on the bike. A mid-drive feels the most natural and is strong on hills, a front hub motor is the cheapest and simplest option.",{"q":375,"a":376},"Can I combine a rear hub motor with hub gears?","Generally not. Most rear hub motors need a derailleur setup with a threaded freewheel or a cassette body.",{},true,"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fmotor-types",{"title":5,"description":368},[382,384,386,388],{"title":383,"url":218},"Upway: convert a bike to an e-bike (German)",{"title":385,"url":291},"Fahrrad XXL: e-bike conversion kit (German)",{"title":387,"url":235},"fasterbikes: configurators",{"title":389,"url":273},"GIGA: mistakes when converting to an e-bike (German)","en\u002Fwissen\u002Fmotor-types",null,"motorarten","2026-11-09","AGzm4kgey-LB_qFTTX6sy3JlBDiZMrJpFomFtEgcmRM",[396,402,408,414,420,426,432,438,444,452,459,465,467,474,480,486],{"path":397,"title":398,"description":399,"topic":400,"applies_to":401,"confidence":367,"updated":393,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fbattery","E-Bike Battery for a Conversion: Position, Space, Range","Where the battery fits on a converted bike, how to measure the space, what branded cells bring, real-world range and how to dispose of it.","akku",[7],{"path":403,"title":404,"description":405,"topic":406,"applies_to":407,"confidence":367,"updated":393,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fbrakes","Brakes for an E-Bike Conversion: What You Need","Rim or disc, cut-off levers and sensors: which brakes are enough for a 250 W pedelec and when an upgrade is needed.","bremsen",[7],{"path":409,"title":410,"description":411,"topic":412,"applies_to":413,"confidence":367,"updated":393,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fcoaster-brake","Coaster Brake and E-Bike Conversion: What Works","A coaster brake is the most common deal-breaker. Which motors work, where coaster-brake variants exist and when to leave it.","ruecktrittbremse",[7],{"path":415,"title":416,"description":417,"topic":418,"applies_to":419,"confidence":367,"updated":393,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fcommon-problems","Common Problems After an E-Bike Conversion","Axle spinning, broken spokes, motor cutting out, jerky starts, fast chain wear: causes and fixes from everyday conversions.","haeufige-probleme",[7],{"path":421,"title":422,"description":423,"topic":424,"applies_to":425,"confidence":367,"updated":393,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fconvert-bike-to-ebike","Convert a Bike to an E-Bike: Overview and Steps","What a conversion costs, which motor fits, what the law says and when you should buy a used e-bike instead. An honest overview from the workshop.","fahrrad-zum-e-bike-umbauen",[7],{"path":427,"title":428,"description":429,"topic":430,"applies_to":431,"confidence":367,"updated":393,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fcosts","What Does an E-Bike Conversion Really Cost?","Cost items at a glance: kit EUR 400 to 1,700, brakes, tools, small parts. Plus the comparison with used and new (about EUR 2,500) and the cost calculator.","kosten",[7],{"path":433,"title":434,"description":435,"topic":436,"applies_to":437,"confidence":367,"updated":393,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fframe-and-weight","Frame and Weight: Which Bike Suits a Conversion","Steel and aluminium are usually fine, carbon is not. Plus the magnet test, total weight, warranty and the wear parts to replace before converting.","rahmen-und-gewicht",[7],{"path":439,"title":440,"description":441,"topic":442,"applies_to":443,"confidence":367,"updated":393,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fglossary","E-Bike Conversion Glossary: Terms Explained","Rated power, volts, watt-hours, newton metres, PAS, torque sensor, Higo and Julet, controller and display: the glossary for e-bike conversions.","begriffe",[7],{"path":445,"title":446,"description":447,"topic":448,"applies_to":449,"confidence":367,"updated":393,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fhub-spacing","Hub Spacing and Axles for an E-Bike Conversion","How to measure hub spacing, quick release versus thru-axle, spreading 130 to 135 mm on steel frames and what to watch with dropouts.","einbaubreite",[450,451],"front","rear",{"path":453,"title":454,"description":455,"topic":456,"applies_to":457,"confidence":367,"updated":393,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fmeasure-bottom-bracket","Measure Your Bottom Bracket for a Mid-Drive","How to measure shell width and bore of your bottom bracket and tell BSA 68\u002F73, Pressfit and BB30 apart. Step by step for a mid-drive motor.","tretlager-messen",[458],"mid",{"path":460,"title":461,"description":462,"topic":463,"applies_to":464,"confidence":367,"updated":393,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fmid-drive-vs-hub-motor","Mid-Drive or Hub Motor: What Suits You?","Ride feel, hills, gears, installation and cost compared, with a clear guide to when a mid-drive and when a front or rear hub motor makes sense.","mittelmotor-oder-nabenmotor",[458,450,451],{"path":379,"title":5,"description":368,"topic":392,"applies_to":466,"confidence":367,"updated":393,"author":8},[7],{"path":468,"title":469,"description":470,"topic":471,"applies_to":472,"confidence":473,"updated":393,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fpedelec-law","Pedelec Law: 250 W, 25 km\u002Fh and Walking Assist","What a conversion may do legally: 250 W rated power, assist only while pedalling up to 25 km\u002Fh, walking assist up to 6 km\u002Fh and what lies beyond.","pedelec-recht",[7],"source",{"path":475,"title":476,"description":477,"topic":478,"applies_to":479,"confidence":367,"updated":393,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Ftools","Tools for an E-Bike Conversion: The List","Which tools you need for front, rear and mid-drive conversions and what kits usually lack, above all the lockring tool.","werkzeug",[7],{"path":481,"title":482,"description":483,"topic":484,"applies_to":485,"confidence":367,"updated":393,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Ftorque-arm","Torque Arm: When You Need One","Why the axle of a hub motor turns in the dropout, when you need a torque arm and how to fit it.","drehmomentstuetze",[450,451],{"path":487,"title":488,"description":489,"topic":490,"applies_to":491,"confidence":367,"updated":393,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fwheel-sizes","Wheel Sizes and ETRTO for E-Bike Conversions","Inches are unreliable, ETRTO is not: how to read wheel size off the tyre and avoid the 635\u002F622 and 406\u002F451 traps.","laufradgroessen",[450,451],1794254701840]