[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":382},["ShallowReactive",2],{"article-en-tools":3,"articles-en":285},{"id":4,"title":5,"applies_to":6,"author":8,"body":9,"confidence":261,"description":262,"extension":263,"faq":264,"meta":271,"navigation":272,"path":273,"seo":274,"sources":275,"stem":280,"test_bike":281,"topic":282,"updated":283,"__hash__":284},"content_en\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Ftools.md","Tools for an E-Bike Conversion: The List",[7],"all","fabio-gentsch",{"type":10,"value":11,"toc":248},"minimark",[12,16,21,24,46,49,53,105,108,112,121,125,175,179,187,191,199,203,212,216,235,241,245],[13,14,15],"p",{},"For the installation you need standard bike workshop tools and, depending on the motor, a few special items. The most common gap with mid-drives is the lockring tool, which many kits do not include. Check before ordering what you are missing, or you will end up on a weekend with a half-dismantled bike.",[17,18,20],"h2",{"id":19},"basic-kit-for-every-conversion","Basic kit for every conversion",[13,22,23],{},"You will need these almost always, whatever the motor:",[25,26,27,31,34,37,40,43],"ul",{},[28,29,30],"li",{},"A set of Allen keys and spanners",[28,32,33],{},"A torque wrench for axle nuts, cranks and bottom bracket",[28,35,36],{},"Cable ties and spiral sleeving so that cables run tidy and protected",[28,38,39],{},"A multimeter to measure voltage at the battery and the connector",[28,41,42],{},"Grease, threadlocker and a clean rag",[28,44,45],{},"A work stand or a stable support so the bike does not tip over",[13,47,48],{},"This is not a mandatory list but our experience so far. If you already have a well-equipped workshop, most of it is there.",[17,50,52],{"id":51},"tools-by-motor-type","Tools by motor type",[54,55,56,69],"table",{},[57,58,59],"thead",{},[60,61,62,66],"tr",{},[63,64,65],"th",{},"Motor type",[63,67,68],{},"Additionally needed",[70,71,72,81,89,97],"tbody",{},[60,73,74,78],{},[75,76,77],"td",{},"Front motor",[75,79,80],{},"Spanner for the axle nuts (check the size), mind the mount if you have a disc brake",[60,82,83,86],{},[75,84,85],{},"Rear motor",[75,87,88],{},"Cassette tool and chain whip, chain tool (to shorten or open the chain)",[60,90,91,94],{},[75,92,93],{},"Mid-drive",[75,95,96],{},"Crank puller, bottom bracket tool, lockring tool, chain tool",[60,98,99,102],{},[75,100,101],{},"Friction roller",[75,103,104],{},"Mostly just Allen keys and spanners; seat-tube systems also need measuring and clamping tools",[13,106,107],{},"This allocation is based on experience. Your particular kit may differ, and its manual comes first.",[17,109,111],{"id":110},"the-classic-the-lockring-tool","The classic: the lockring tool",[13,113,114,115,120],{},"Bafang mid-drives sit in the bottom bracket shell and are secured with a large lockring. For that you need the matching lockring tool. Many kits do not supply it. When it is missing, some people try to undo the ring with a hammer and screwdriver. That often damages the ring or the shell. Order the tool beforehand, it costs little. How to measure the bottom bracket beforehand is explained under ",[116,117,119],"a",{"href":118},"\u002Fen\u002Fknowledge\u002Fmeasure-bottom-bracket","measure bottom bracket",".",[17,122,124],{"id":123},"other-parts-that-get-forgotten","Other parts that get forgotten",[25,126,127,134,140,146,152,162],{},[28,128,129,133],{},[130,131,132],"strong",{},"Crank puller:"," You need it to remove the crank before the mid-drive goes into the bottom bracket. Ideally the type that matches your crank fitting (square taper, Octalink, ISIS).",[28,135,136,139],{},[130,137,138],{},"Bottom bracket tool:"," For removing the old bottom bracket. It must fit your bearing type.",[28,141,142,145],{},[130,143,144],{},"Cassette tool and chain whip:"," With a rear motor, the cassette or freewheel must move from the old wheel to the motor hub. You need both.",[28,147,148,151],{},[130,149,150],{},"Chain tool:"," If the chain has to be longer or shorter after the conversion. Do not forget the right links or quick links.",[28,153,154,157,158,120],{},[130,155,156],{},"Spoke key:"," After around 100 km re-tensioning may be needed, see ",[116,159,161],{"href":160},"\u002Fen\u002Fknowledge\u002Fcommon-problems","common problems",[28,163,164,167,168,174],{},[130,165,166],{},"Programming cable:"," Bafang controllers can be configured with it, including the 25 km\u002Fh limit (",[116,169,173],{"href":170,"rel":171},"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.netzwelt.de\u002Fnews\u002F257770-fahrrad-e-bike-umruesten-systeme-gibt-ab-rund-500-euro-aufwaerts.html",[172],"nofollow","netzwelt",").",[17,176,178],{"id":177},"what-to-buy-and-what-to-borrow","What to buy and what to borrow",[13,180,181,182,186],{},"Not every tool is worth buying for a single conversion. A lockring tool, crank puller and bottom bracket tool cost little individually, but together they add up. The item \"missing tools\" is EUR 0 to 100 in our cost overview, see ",[116,183,185],{"href":184},"\u002Fen\u002Fknowledge\u002Fcosts","costs",". That is an assumption. Some bike shops and self-help workshops lend special tools, so just ask.",[17,188,190],{"id":189},"the-torque-wrench-is-not-a-luxury","The torque wrench is not a luxury",[13,192,193,194,198],{},"Axle nuts on a hub motor, crank bolts and lockrings have tightening torques. Too loose means the axle spins in the dropout, see ",[116,195,197],{"href":196},"\u002Fen\u002Fknowledge\u002Ftorque-arm","torque arm",". Too tight means a damaged thread or distorted parts. Take the values from the kit's manual and set them on the wrench. Without a torque wrench you tighten by feel, and that easily goes wrong, particularly on aluminium.",[17,200,202],{"id":201},"if-you-are-unsure","If you are unsure",[13,204,205,206,211],{},"If you have never removed a bottom bracket or a cassette, a mid-drive will be hard going. There is no shame in that. A workshop that does conversions is then the better choice. Bear in mind, though, that some workshops refuse conversions because they count as a modification of the manufacturer's product (",[116,207,210],{"href":208,"rel":209},"https:\u002F\u002Ffahrrad-xxl.at\u002Fblog\u002Fe-bike-umbausatz",[172],"Fahrrad XXL","). Find a conversion-friendly workshop beforehand.",[17,213,215],{"id":214},"checklist-before-ordering","Checklist before ordering",[217,218,219,226,229,232],"ol",{},[28,220,221,222,120],{},"Decide on the motor type, see ",[116,223,225],{"href":224},"\u002Fen\u002Fknowledge\u002Fmotor-types","motor types",[28,227,228],{},"Read the kit's manual and compare it with its list of required tools.",[28,230,231],{},"Order or borrow what is missing before the bike is taken apart.",[28,233,234],{},"Have spares ready: quick link, cable ties and threadlocker.",[13,236,237],{},[116,238,240],{"href":239},"\u002Fen\u002Fconfigurator","Does a conversion fit your bike?",[17,242,244],{"id":243},"how-reliable-is-this","How reliable is this?",[13,246,247],{},"That some workshops refuse conversions is stated in the linked source, as is configuring the Bafang controller with a programming cable. The tool list itself and the allocation to motor types are experience and assumptions that Fabio is still checking.",{"title":249,"searchDepth":250,"depth":250,"links":251},"",2,[252,253,254,255,256,257,258,259,260],{"id":19,"depth":250,"text":20},{"id":51,"depth":250,"text":52},{"id":110,"depth":250,"text":111},{"id":123,"depth":250,"text":124},{"id":177,"depth":250,"text":178},{"id":189,"depth":250,"text":190},{"id":201,"depth":250,"text":202},{"id":214,"depth":250,"text":215},{"id":243,"depth":250,"text":244},"assumption","Which tools you need for front, rear and mid-drive conversions and what kits usually lack, above all the lockring tool.","md",[265,268],{"q":266,"a":267},"Which tools do conversion kits usually lack?","Often the lockring tool for Bafang mid-drives, plus a crank puller, bottom bracket tool and a torque wrench.",{"q":269,"a":270},"Do I need many tools for a front motor?","No. Usually spanners for the axle nuts, a torque wrench, cable ties and spiral sleeving are enough.",{},true,"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Ftools",{"title":5,"description":262},[276,278],{"title":277,"url":208},"Fahrrad XXL: e-bike conversion kit",{"title":279,"url":170},"netzwelt: converting a bike to an e-bike","en\u002Fwissen\u002Ftools",null,"werkzeug","2026-11-09","lV7M_sOqROChALpjN4EzAaQ7MgpkUZEG0BYq8Q6BeMI",[286,292,298,304,310,316,322,328,334,342,349,355,361,368,370,376],{"path":287,"title":288,"description":289,"topic":290,"applies_to":291,"confidence":261,"updated":283,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fbattery","E-Bike Battery for a Conversion: Position, Space, Range","Where the battery fits on a converted bike, how to measure the space, what branded cells bring, real-world range and how to dispose of it.","akku",[7],{"path":293,"title":294,"description":295,"topic":296,"applies_to":297,"confidence":261,"updated":283,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fbrakes","Brakes for an E-Bike Conversion: What You Need","Rim or disc, cut-off levers and sensors: which brakes are enough for a 250 W pedelec and when an upgrade is needed.","bremsen",[7],{"path":299,"title":300,"description":301,"topic":302,"applies_to":303,"confidence":261,"updated":283,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fcoaster-brake","Coaster Brake and E-Bike Conversion: What Works","A coaster brake is the most common deal-breaker. Which motors work, where coaster-brake variants exist and when to leave it.","ruecktrittbremse",[7],{"path":305,"title":306,"description":307,"topic":308,"applies_to":309,"confidence":261,"updated":283,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fcommon-problems","Common Problems After an E-Bike Conversion","Axle spinning, broken spokes, motor cutting out, jerky starts, fast chain wear: causes and fixes from everyday conversions.","haeufige-probleme",[7],{"path":311,"title":312,"description":313,"topic":314,"applies_to":315,"confidence":261,"updated":283,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fconvert-bike-to-ebike","Convert a Bike to an E-Bike: Overview and Steps","What a conversion costs, which motor fits, what the law says and when you should buy a used e-bike instead. An honest overview from the workshop.","fahrrad-zum-e-bike-umbauen",[7],{"path":317,"title":318,"description":319,"topic":320,"applies_to":321,"confidence":261,"updated":283,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fcosts","What Does an E-Bike Conversion Really Cost?","Cost items at a glance: kit EUR 400 to 1,700, brakes, tools, small parts. Plus the comparison with used and new (about EUR 2,500) and the cost calculator.","kosten",[7],{"path":323,"title":324,"description":325,"topic":326,"applies_to":327,"confidence":261,"updated":283,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fframe-and-weight","Frame and Weight: Which Bike Suits a Conversion","Steel and aluminium are usually fine, carbon is not. Plus the magnet test, total weight, warranty and the wear parts to replace before converting.","rahmen-und-gewicht",[7],{"path":329,"title":330,"description":331,"topic":332,"applies_to":333,"confidence":261,"updated":283,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fglossary","E-Bike Conversion Glossary: Terms Explained","Rated power, volts, watt-hours, newton metres, PAS, torque sensor, Higo and Julet, controller and display: the glossary for e-bike conversions.","begriffe",[7],{"path":335,"title":336,"description":337,"topic":338,"applies_to":339,"confidence":261,"updated":283,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fhub-spacing","Hub Spacing and Axles for an E-Bike Conversion","How to measure hub spacing, quick release versus thru-axle, spreading 130 to 135 mm on steel frames and what to watch with dropouts.","einbaubreite",[340,341],"front","rear",{"path":343,"title":344,"description":345,"topic":346,"applies_to":347,"confidence":261,"updated":283,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fmeasure-bottom-bracket","Measure Your Bottom Bracket for a Mid-Drive","How to measure shell width and bore of your bottom bracket and tell BSA 68\u002F73, Pressfit and BB30 apart. Step by step for a mid-drive motor.","tretlager-messen",[348],"mid",{"path":350,"title":351,"description":352,"topic":353,"applies_to":354,"confidence":261,"updated":283,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fmid-drive-vs-hub-motor","Mid-Drive or Hub Motor: What Suits You?","Ride feel, hills, gears, installation and cost compared, with a clear guide to when a mid-drive and when a front or rear hub motor makes sense.","mittelmotor-oder-nabenmotor",[348,340,341],{"path":356,"title":357,"description":358,"topic":359,"applies_to":360,"confidence":261,"updated":283,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fmotor-types","E-Bike Conversion Motor Types Compared","Front, rear and mid-drive motors, friction rollers and seat-tube motors compared: feel, installation, cost and which bikes suit which.","motorarten",[7],{"path":362,"title":363,"description":364,"topic":365,"applies_to":366,"confidence":367,"updated":283,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fpedelec-law","Pedelec Law: 250 W, 25 km\u002Fh and Walking Assist","What a conversion may do legally: 250 W rated power, assist only while pedalling up to 25 km\u002Fh, walking assist up to 6 km\u002Fh and what lies beyond.","pedelec-recht",[7],"source",{"path":273,"title":5,"description":262,"topic":282,"applies_to":369,"confidence":261,"updated":283,"author":8},[7],{"path":371,"title":372,"description":373,"topic":374,"applies_to":375,"confidence":261,"updated":283,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Ftorque-arm","Torque Arm: When You Need One","Why the axle of a hub motor turns in the dropout, when you need a torque arm and how to fit it.","drehmomentstuetze",[340,341],{"path":377,"title":378,"description":379,"topic":380,"applies_to":381,"confidence":261,"updated":283,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fwheel-sizes","Wheel Sizes and ETRTO for E-Bike Conversions","Inches are unreliable, ETRTO is not: how to read wheel size off the tyre and avoid the 635\u002F622 and 406\u002F451 traps.","laufradgroessen",[340,341],1794254701998]